While the Parisian clubbing scene is to all intents and purposes
moribund, a new trend is sweeping the French capital as bars and cafes
transform into impromptu live music venues. These are equally attractive
for young new bands eager to perform and for audiences who usually get
in for free or pay €5-10 for a night out listening to everything from
chanson and indie to afrobeat and salsa, jazz and blues to manouche and
post punk rock.
• 39 rue des Petites Ecuries, 10th, +33 1 5334 6085, lepompon.fr. Métro: Poissonnière, Bonne Nouvelle. Open daily 7pm-2am
In the heart of Pigalle, the Carmen is one of the hotttest new
addresses in town right now. Set in a sumptuous mansion that was once
the home of Georges Bizet, this bar is a series of cosy salons decorated
with glittering chandeliers and velvet sofas. The music is organised by
young British expat John Whelan, and ranges from new French bands such
as Armistice to ultra hip fashion DJs like Jerry Bouthier. Entry for all
the concerts is free, but be prepared for quite steep drinks prices,
especially if you're tempted by the lengthy list of cocktails.
• 35 rue Duperré, 9th, +33 1 4526 5000, le-carmen.fr. Métro: Blanche, Pigalle. Open 8pm-2am
Not to be confused with London's Cafe de Paris, this is a much more
street-wise, bohemian hang-out. Rue Oberkampf is one of the capital's
wildest nightlife spots, but you have to go right up to the gritty
Chinatown end to discover this beautiful belle époque bar. It
looks like a drab cafe from the street, but walk right to the end of the
bar and there is a frescoed ballroom that hosts theatre, poetry and
music, while downstairs is a miniscule cellar for budding young rock and
punk bands. Most concerts are priced at €5.
• 158 rue Oberkampf, 11th, +33 1 4357 3467, aucafedeparis.pagesperso-orange.fr. Open daily 6pm-2am
The China has long been one of the city's most stylish clubs,
incorporating a gourmet Chinese restaurant and stunning tropical
cocktail bar. But recently the cool downstairs bar has been turned into a
lively music venue, too, with concerts every night, free entrance, beer
and wine at €5 a glass if you don't want to pay for an expensive
cocktail. The programming is eclectic, meaning that on any one night you
could catch gypsy manouche musicians, a jazz jam session, the folky
French crooner Morik, burlesque cabaret from the La Petite Cour des
Astres, or a great new R&B band, Kiss my Frogs.
• 50 rue de Charenton, 12th, +33 1 4346 0809, lechina.eu. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am
Things move fast on the live Paris music scene, and this popular
hangout known for its fun mix of north African, Caribbean and Cuban
bands, right off the beaten track near the place de la Nation, has been
totally transformed over the last few weeks. There is a new name, the
barman is pulling pints of Belgium beer instead of mixing mojitos, the
kitchen is serving moules frites rather than tagines, and in the
basement performance space, expect a programme of electronic and jazz
music. Entry is free for the concerts, but you have to buy one drink,
priced at €5.
• 6 rue Planchat, 20th, +33 1 4370 4103. Métro: Avron
A famous venue for discovering the latest in French indie music, the
Flèche d'Or gets regularly closed down, but always reopens a few months
later. Housed in a cavernous converted train station overlooking La Petit Ceinture
– an abandoned rail line that runs round the whole of Paris – the days
of it being a wild drinking haunt are temporarily over because right
now, it is only licensed to open for concerts, with tickets ranging
between €5-10. Be sure to check the website, as the place is often sold
out in advance.
• 102 rue de Bagnolet, 20th, +33 1 4464 0102, flechedor.fr. Métro: Gambetta. Open Tues-Fri 8pm-2am, Sat-Sun 8pm-6am
Owned by Franco-Algerian friends of Mourad Mamouz, the man behind
Sketch and Momo in London, every night is party time at the Alimentation
Générale. This bare, minimalist space – meaning no actual decor apart
from some old school chairs and tables plus a battered Babyfoot (table
football) – tends to get packed out just before the live music kicks
off, and everyone is soon dancing. Bands play Brazilian and Cuban, West
African High Life, East European jazz, French hip-hop and electro-funk.
Check the website for the monthly Sunday evening concert of Zabumba, a
brilliant bunch of samba percussionists. You just wonder how the
Parisians make it into work on Monday morning.
• 64 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11th, +33 1 4355 4250, alimentation-generale.net. Métro: Parmentier. Open Wed, Thur and Sun 5pm to 2am, Fri-Sat 5pm-5am
Most of the leisure boats moored on the banks of the Seine house
touristy restaurants or tacky cabarets, but towards the towering
Bibliothèque Nationale, there are two notable exceptions. La Dame de Canton
is a magical wooden junk that sailed to Paris from China, and has
hosted the likes of Louise Attaque, La Grande Sophie and Thomas Dutronc
before they made their names. Then further down the river is the
arresting sight of Le Batofar, an Irish floating lighthouse that has a
seething concert hall, restaurant, terrace overlooking the water, and a
"beach" in summer on the quayside. The music extends from reggae and
heavy metal, to afrobeat and breakcore.
• Port de la Gare, 13th, +33 9 7125 5061, batofar.org. Métro: Quai de la Gare. Check website for opening hours
Paris has always been famous for its atmospheric jazz clubs, but
these days, many of them are expensive and only feature well-known
artists. Just behind the Moulin Rouge in Montmartre, the "cave au jazz"
of Autour du Midi is a more laid-back locale. During the week, it is
free entry for jam sessions every Tuesday and Wednesday, along with sets
by musicians from the ARPE3 jazz school on Thursday. While on Friday
and Saturday, concerts featuring bebop, swing and New Orleans bands cost
€16, but with the first drink included. There are two vaulted cellars
here, one converted into a bar, the other a performance space.
• 11 rue Lepic, 18th, +33 1 5579 1648, autourdemidi.fr. Métro: Blanche
The streets that run between Chatelet, Les Halles and the Pompidou
Centre form a Bermuda Triangle of nightlife venues, and the latest to
hit the scene is Le Klub. It's easy to walk straight past the small
black door entrance, but once inside, be prepared for live bands pumping
out raucous French rock or Goth heavy metal. Check the web for the
regular Le Klub les Filles de Joie nights, when the ambience changes
completely with a live burlesque cabaret and DJs playing 80s dance
music.
• 14 rue Saint Denis, 1st, +33 1 4236 2699, korporation.net/le-klub. Métro: Châtelet. Open daily 10pm-6am
• All photographs by John Brunton
Le Pompon
Another exciting new address on the music scene, Le Pompon takes the prize for the most unusual setting – a converted synagogue. There is a buzzing bar on the ground floor, while indie bands or electro-pop DJs play in a super-insulated speakeasy basement – it's like entering a bank vault – to avoid noise complaints by the neighbours. After midnight, expect a packed dancefloor. Entry is free, drinks reasonably priced. Just down the street is the famous jazz club, Le New Morning, but ticket prices there are as expensive as Ronnie Scott's in London.• 39 rue des Petites Ecuries, 10th, +33 1 5334 6085, lepompon.fr. Métro: Poissonnière, Bonne Nouvelle. Open daily 7pm-2am
Le Carmen
In the heart of Pigalle, the Carmen is one of the hotttest new
addresses in town right now. Set in a sumptuous mansion that was once
the home of Georges Bizet, this bar is a series of cosy salons decorated
with glittering chandeliers and velvet sofas. The music is organised by
young British expat John Whelan, and ranges from new French bands such
as Armistice to ultra hip fashion DJs like Jerry Bouthier. Entry for all
the concerts is free, but be prepared for quite steep drinks prices,
especially if you're tempted by the lengthy list of cocktails. • 35 rue Duperré, 9th, +33 1 4526 5000, le-carmen.fr. Métro: Blanche, Pigalle. Open 8pm-2am
Au Cafe de Paris
Not to be confused with London's Cafe de Paris, this is a much more
street-wise, bohemian hang-out. Rue Oberkampf is one of the capital's
wildest nightlife spots, but you have to go right up to the gritty
Chinatown end to discover this beautiful belle époque bar. It
looks like a drab cafe from the street, but walk right to the end of the
bar and there is a frescoed ballroom that hosts theatre, poetry and
music, while downstairs is a miniscule cellar for budding young rock and
punk bands. Most concerts are priced at €5. • 158 rue Oberkampf, 11th, +33 1 4357 3467, aucafedeparis.pagesperso-orange.fr. Open daily 6pm-2am
Le China
The China has long been one of the city's most stylish clubs,
incorporating a gourmet Chinese restaurant and stunning tropical
cocktail bar. But recently the cool downstairs bar has been turned into a
lively music venue, too, with concerts every night, free entrance, beer
and wine at €5 a glass if you don't want to pay for an expensive
cocktail. The programming is eclectic, meaning that on any one night you
could catch gypsy manouche musicians, a jazz jam session, the folky
French crooner Morik, burlesque cabaret from the La Petite Cour des
Astres, or a great new R&B band, Kiss my Frogs. • 50 rue de Charenton, 12th, +33 1 4346 0809, lechina.eu. Métro: Ledru-Rollin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am
Le Bouillon Belge
Things move fast on the live Paris music scene, and this popular
hangout known for its fun mix of north African, Caribbean and Cuban
bands, right off the beaten track near the place de la Nation, has been
totally transformed over the last few weeks. There is a new name, the
barman is pulling pints of Belgium beer instead of mixing mojitos, the
kitchen is serving moules frites rather than tagines, and in the
basement performance space, expect a programme of electronic and jazz
music. Entry is free for the concerts, but you have to buy one drink,
priced at €5. • 6 rue Planchat, 20th, +33 1 4370 4103. Métro: Avron
La Flèche d'Or
A famous venue for discovering the latest in French indie music, the
Flèche d'Or gets regularly closed down, but always reopens a few months
later. Housed in a cavernous converted train station overlooking La Petit Ceinture
– an abandoned rail line that runs round the whole of Paris – the days
of it being a wild drinking haunt are temporarily over because right
now, it is only licensed to open for concerts, with tickets ranging
between €5-10. Be sure to check the website, as the place is often sold
out in advance. • 102 rue de Bagnolet, 20th, +33 1 4464 0102, flechedor.fr. Métro: Gambetta. Open Tues-Fri 8pm-2am, Sat-Sun 8pm-6am
L'Alimentation Générale
Owned by Franco-Algerian friends of Mourad Mamouz, the man behind
Sketch and Momo in London, every night is party time at the Alimentation
Générale. This bare, minimalist space – meaning no actual decor apart
from some old school chairs and tables plus a battered Babyfoot (table
football) – tends to get packed out just before the live music kicks
off, and everyone is soon dancing. Bands play Brazilian and Cuban, West
African High Life, East European jazz, French hip-hop and electro-funk.
Check the website for the monthly Sunday evening concert of Zabumba, a
brilliant bunch of samba percussionists. You just wonder how the
Parisians make it into work on Monday morning. • 64 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11th, +33 1 4355 4250, alimentation-generale.net. Métro: Parmentier. Open Wed, Thur and Sun 5pm to 2am, Fri-Sat 5pm-5am
Le Batofar
Most of the leisure boats moored on the banks of the Seine house
touristy restaurants or tacky cabarets, but towards the towering
Bibliothèque Nationale, there are two notable exceptions. La Dame de Canton
is a magical wooden junk that sailed to Paris from China, and has
hosted the likes of Louise Attaque, La Grande Sophie and Thomas Dutronc
before they made their names. Then further down the river is the
arresting sight of Le Batofar, an Irish floating lighthouse that has a
seething concert hall, restaurant, terrace overlooking the water, and a
"beach" in summer on the quayside. The music extends from reggae and
heavy metal, to afrobeat and breakcore. • Port de la Gare, 13th, +33 9 7125 5061, batofar.org. Métro: Quai de la Gare. Check website for opening hours
Autour de Midi
Paris has always been famous for its atmospheric jazz clubs, but
these days, many of them are expensive and only feature well-known
artists. Just behind the Moulin Rouge in Montmartre, the "cave au jazz"
of Autour du Midi is a more laid-back locale. During the week, it is
free entry for jam sessions every Tuesday and Wednesday, along with sets
by musicians from the ARPE3 jazz school on Thursday. While on Friday
and Saturday, concerts featuring bebop, swing and New Orleans bands cost
€16, but with the first drink included. There are two vaulted cellars
here, one converted into a bar, the other a performance space. • 11 rue Lepic, 18th, +33 1 5579 1648, autourdemidi.fr. Métro: Blanche
Le Klub
The streets that run between Chatelet, Les Halles and the Pompidou
Centre form a Bermuda Triangle of nightlife venues, and the latest to
hit the scene is Le Klub. It's easy to walk straight past the small
black door entrance, but once inside, be prepared for live bands pumping
out raucous French rock or Goth heavy metal. Check the web for the
regular Le Klub les Filles de Joie nights, when the ambience changes
completely with a live burlesque cabaret and DJs playing 80s dance
music. • 14 rue Saint Denis, 1st, +33 1 4236 2699, korporation.net/le-klub. Métro: Châtelet. Open daily 10pm-6am
• All photographs by John Brunton
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